First Impressions

Essalem alaykum!
Since arriving two (three?) days ago, I have already begun to feel immersed in the culture. Perhaps I anticipated the differences in culture so much or maybe it will hit me harder sometime in the near future, but I do feel surprisingly at ease...in some sense. You only get one chance at a first impression, so here it is:
A permanent haze encompasses the city. Guards dressed in white uniforms patrol nearly every block on the streets on the island of Zamalek. Tourist police, in order to ensure the safety of the tourists. Zamalek, considered a higher class neighborhood of Cairo, serves as a microcosm for the general structure, both physical and social, of the city as a whole. Though considered the "Manhattan" of Cairo, the sidewalks are littered with cigarette butts, animal droppings, cans and bottles, and a plethora of other objects. BMWs, vans, and many older vehicles cruise through the narrow streets, often barely stopping to allow pedestrians to cross. Though many streets are paved, the curbs are nearly a foot up off of ground level, and bricks and stones jut out unevenly. This apparent lack in sanitary standards, however, does not reflect the attitude of its peoples.
As I learned from my "crash-course Arabic" instructor, Syanora, there are really only two classes: the rich and the poor. The gap is ever growing, not just because of a faltering economy but because of cultural norms. Many of my everyday encounters on the island are with tourists or local shopkeepers, who persistently smile at you, waving "souvenirs" or other items in your face, yelling out prices talking about discounts. Initially, you might think they just want your money, which they do. For many, however, this is their only source of income, for themselves as well as their families. Many of these people have gone to college or university and graduated with a degree in fields ranging from business to tourism to engineering, yet because of their social status they have no work despite their higher level of education. My natural instinct is to give what I have to these individuals, however, we are CONSTANTLY being warned to refrain from giving "bak sheish" (tips or small change). Young children and shopkeepers thrust themselves and their services or products in your face. Their physical condition appears lousy, to say the least; ripped shirts, dirty faces, scratched hands, and yet we are told to hold onto our money, don't cave to the innocent and persistent looks of the locals. Further contemplation on this issue is to come. For now, off to a Falouka on the Nile!